AUSTRALIAN POULTRY FORUM™

Hi,

My new 6 month old birchin pekin cockerel is VERY sick.

I put him in a show cage about 3 days ago because he just looked a little "quiet". I treated him with Baycox as suggested by PA, and he's had 2 days worth of treatment. Another thing I've noticed is that his comb & wattles are a very dark, dull mulberry colour instead of a healthy red.

He is showing no sign of improvement, and this morning looks critical. He doesn't seem to have any breathing difficulties/discharge, and the poos in his cage look quite normal (although when I lifted him up this morning the shavings under him were quite wet like he'd spilt some water there).

I want to worm him, but want to do it to the beak to make sure he gets it. Is this a good idea if he is so sick? I have Avitrol Plus here, and also Big L Poultry & Pig Wormer, as well as ivermectin.

Which would be best to use on a critically ill bird, if any!

He is currently in a show cage with a warming light and covered with a towel to make sure he doesn't get cold.

I really don't want to lose him as good birchins are very rare at the moment.

Please help.

Deb

Hi Deb, Sorry to hear about your cockerel. I probably can't help a lot but I would not worm a sick bird unless you were absolutely convinced worms were the probelm. As you tend to worm regularly I don't think it would be worms. Have you felt his crop to make sure he doesn't have any compaction there. I would almost say the reason for the dark colouring in the comb and wattles would be lack of oxygen somehow, be it crop compaction or respritory problems.

I do hope someone else can offer some more helpful advice. Good luck with him and I ope he pulls through.

I felt his crop and it felt to have food in it this morning, but felt squashy and soft. How do you treat crop impaction?

Hi Deb, sorry to hear about your roo, with the darkening Comb and Wattles (and assuming his comb is "limp") that indicates lack of oxygen/blood flow which is associated with respiratory infection. Do you have "Baytril" or "Tylan" if so treat him a.s.s.p if you don't then as a stop gap you can use "Disprin" make sure it's dissolved and you can give it orally approx 3ml twice a day for 24-48 hours. Once you have "Baytril" or "Tylan" follow the dose rate and period on the instructions.


Good luck


Thanks
P.A

Thanks CL & PA. I had decided to take him to the vet this afternoon, however I've just come home to pick him up and found him dead.

I could scream - I have waited 6 months to get this birchin pair, and he was a lovely-natured boy, too. I don't think I even got a photo of him!

I might ring the vet anyway and see if I can get some Baytril to have it on hand.

So - WHAT TO DO FIRST WITH A SICK CHICKEN??

As soon as I noticed him a bit "off" I caged him and treated him for coccidiosis as that's the first thing I think of. I know by the time they look sick they are very sick, but what more can I do? Is there something better than Baycox as a first treatment? Before a darkening comb is noticeable?

When I lost my millefleur Belgian rooster a few months back it was the same (although not sure it was the same complaint as I don't remember his comb going dark and floppy)- so frustrating! He was fine, then quiet, then dead.

The other two pekins I got with this boy seem healthy, and haven't been in contact with him for a few days now.

Any suggestions for future sick chickens would be greatly appreciated as I don't know what more I can do.

Deb

Sorry to read he died Deb, we will put together some info and post it Tomorrow.




Thanks
P.A

Thanks PA. I rang my vet and she agreed with the probable "respiratory infection" diagnosis. She is going to get some Baytril for me today to keep on hand.

She said that if it was an infection that he could have gone quite rapidly due to having a very high temperature. I didn't check his temperature at all (didn't even feel his comb) and put him in a show cage with a lamp to keep him warm so maybe that didn't help! Is checking comb/foot temperature important in the early stages to avoid overheating?

As he had been here two weeks or so, and was down the pecking order a bit, she seemed to think it was something he may have picked up here that he was susceptible to (due to stress/moving) that hopefully my others are already immune to, rather than something he brought with him. Fingers crossed.

Luckily I still have an undercoloured birchin pullet that I got the same day (she seems okay) and also a really nice birchin x mealy grey rooster that I was given as a bonus so I can still have some sort of breeding programme later in the year. He was a nice cockerel, though.

Hi Deb, We have written the Article below and Posted it as a Sticky, but thought we would rply here as well.

Thanks
P.A

Sick Poultry “What are the early symptoms?”

Unfortunately all poultry keepers will experience a “Sick Bird” at same stage. how we identify this can mean the difference between life & death for the bird in particular catching a problem as early as possible. This can be very difficult as some symptoms can be masked until the final days and in some case too late. So how do you know if your bird is sick?

Early diagnosis
In most cases the first outward symptoms are:

Loss of appetite: In most case a loss of appetite is the First indicator that something is wrong and if the loss of appetite continues for more that 48 72 hours then a close examination is a must, don’t leave it several days as poultry will loose condition rapidly and therefore loose the ability to fight off Illness or Disease and lower their immune system When examining the bird first feel the breast bone and in particular the area left and right of the bone this area should have stored deposits (Body weight or Meat) Poultry will loose weight from the Breast area first and this will begin to show by a protruding breast bone, virtually becoming “Sharp” with sunken areas left and right of the bone.

If the bird has Bodyweight then its likely you have caught the problem (if there is one)in the earliest stage this mean you can monitor the bird knowing it has Bodyweight and is not critical. If the bird continues with a poor or no appetite then you need to Isolate the bird and look for other outward symptoms and seek advice.

If the bird is “Light” meaning there is little stored deposits then it has been sick for some time and you need to react immediately. Your first step is to Isolate the bird from ALL other birds (ALL poultry) then look for other outward symptoms and seek advice A.S.A.P

“Sick Appearance” this usually coincides with loss of appetite where a bird will appear “Sickly” this means Fluffed appearance, lethargic, sleeping for long periods during the day in the one spot ect.. It must be said that Poultry do have their “Off days” so don’t jump the gun and assume the worst. The most important point is you are aware that something might be wrong and monitor the bird, twice a day at least i.e. morning and late afternoon

One of the most important points we can make is to “Ask for help” don’t be afraid to ask for help or advise, there is no such thing as a Dumb question in poultry, it’s dumb not to ask. You can seek advise/help from many avenues these days including Vets, Experienced breeders, Forums, Poultry Clubs ect.. And in 99% of cases all will be more than happy to help were possible.

Prevention is better than cure:
Some tips on Preventing health issues:

1) Always quarantine new birds for a minimum of 14 days.
2) Always Worm new birds
3) Use a broad-spectrum antibiotic such as “Oxytetracycline Hydrochloride” as a preventative for Respiratory Infections on new birds. Treat for 3 days at the recommended dose rate
4) Use a broad-spectrum antibiotic such as “Oxytetracycline Hydrochloride” as a preventative for Respiratory Infections on all poultry. Treat them 1 month prior to the breeding season and one month after.
5) Keep your Pens/Coops clean, pay special attention to the Shelter/Roost areas and remove any Feces (Poo) on a regular basis, do not let it build up.
6) Keep the shelter/Roost area dry and free from dust build up, this will help prevent mites.
7) Twice a year spray to Shelter/Roost for Mites using an Avian Mite/Lice insecticide pay special attention to Perches & Boxes and randomly check your birds to make sure this is working.
8.) Give your bird a diverse diet including Greens, Cereals & Fruit this will give them the additional Vitamins & Minerals needed for good health

great information thank you PA. It will certainly be helpful to me.

Thank you very much for this, PA. Great information as usual, and being a sticky we will know where to find it.

Deb