Sussex Hens

Chelley · **Joined:** Thu Feb 24, 2011 3:00 pm **Posts:** 3

I am looking at buying some sussex hens as I like the look of them but would like to know what their egg laying life span is?

RPoultry · **Joined:** Thu May 27, 2010 9:40 pm **Posts:** 933

If fed and cared for properly, i would say they are good for 5 years, but the number of eggs produced will decrease each year :-D

I have 5 Light Sussex hens, that i bought in 2004 and they are still producing eggs each season :-D

Roova · **Posted:** Fri Feb 25, 2011 5:24 am

It also depends on what line you buy. There are show lines and utility lines. The show lines will probably be huge and look amazing but may lay very poorly. The utility lines will probably be much smaller but may have a better laying capacity. You would need to ask the same question from the person you're buying from to be safe I think. I think they are meant to be a good all round chook (meaning they are also good to eat!). Good luck :-D

Chelley · **Joined:** Thu Feb 24, 2011 3:00 pm **Posts:** 3

I want to go down the path of utility sussex as showing is of no interest to me. I would be happy with 5 years that good
Thank you
Is layer pellets and house scraps the best for them?

Roova · **Posted:** Sat Feb 26, 2011 10:26 am

Depending on what age you get them, yes layer pellets are best. Scraps should be fed as a treat only, you don't want the filling up on these and not eating their pellets. They offer a laying hen the appropriate nutrients to help her body produce an egg every day without affecting her health. They do love scraps though I guess pellets are pretty boring after a while). Free ranging is also good for the mental health and lots of green grass gives you nice yellow yolkes.

If you can't find any sussex through farmstock classifieds, you could try Poultry Pals (they have a website) who also do poultry transport. Then there are auctions but make sure you either take someone knowledgeable with you, or be able to speak to the seller. You don't want to buy someone elses problem!

Have fun with your new hens!

purefeather · **Joined:** Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:36 pm **Posts:** 736

G'day Chelley, I would suggest light sussex or speckled sussex as a breed to nurture, firstly because their genetic base is much broarder than the other sussex varieties.
As for feeding your chooks, free range is by far the best option (chooks know better than most what they need in dietry matters). If you can't free range your fowls then the next best option is to offer them as wide a selection of foodstuffs as possible. If you like the look of it then your chooks will most likely kill for it. As for layer pellets or any other pellets , they are always the food that's left on the ground for the rats to clean up . In other words when it comes to a chickens appetite they're not much different to us (variety is the spice of life).

purefeather · **Joined:** Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:36 pm **Posts:** 736

One other thing I'd like to raise about feed is maize/corn. I't's an energy food not a yellow leg colouring hormone(it will turn your white lobed birds into orange lobed birds if over done).Now for large breeds ( such as sussex), you should only feed maize/corn during the cooler months of the year to extend their laying season .In the warmer parts of the year the maize /corn could possibly kill your large breeds by over heating. Look forward to the feed back.

Roova · **Posted:** Sun Feb 27, 2011 5:58 am

Quote:

As for feeding your chooks, free range is by far the best option (chooks know better than most what they need in dietry matters). If you can't free range your fowls then the next best option is to offer them as wide a selection of foodstuffs as possible. If you like the look of it then your chooks will most likely kill for it. As for layer pellets or any other pellets , they are always the food that's left on the ground for the rats to clean up

One thing to keep in mind with free ranging, is chooks can quickly strip an area of anything decent to eat nutritionally so it may not be safe to leave this as this being their only food source. Sussex eat a LOT, in some cases more than other breeds, and I personally would always make sure to have layer pellets on hand 24/7 in addition to free range. The chance of your laying hens finding enough protein and calcium in a free range situation alone, to produce an egg every day and stay healthy, is pretty slim.

If you feed too many treats or other foods, they will leave their layer pellets until last. Like children they will likely eat the things which taste good first and this may not be what is actually going to keep them in premium health. Treats should be 10% or less of their main food source. Grandpa feeders, or peddle feeders, are fantastic to stop rats and mice getting to food if this ever becomes an issue. The hens steps on the peddle, the lid opens, they eat the food, and the lid closes when they step off. It's not that hard train them how to use one.

Red Hen chicken food from Laucke Mills, is probably one of the more premium food brands you can buy. The 'blue' bag is a good start for layers if you want to see how they go with it. If you're not get a huge number of hens they won't go through it too fast. If you try cheaper brands later on, you'll have a good idea if egg numbers drop or hens don't look as good you know it may be the food. Personally I don't have as much wasteage on this brand as I have with other brands. Keep in mind sorghum is often used as a 'filler' so some (cheaper) brands of chicken feed often have this bulking their bags out. It is certainly digestable but its often what you see being left behind.

Don't forget to have shell grit (for calcium) available 24/7 too. They'll eat this as they need too, along with finding tiny stones to eat when they're free ranging, which help them grind their food.

:-D

Chelley · **Joined:** Thu Feb 24, 2011 3:00 pm **Posts:** 3

Thank you both very helpful

AUSTRALIAN POULTRY FORUM™

Sussex Hens

Who is on the Forum